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When compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.